By Nicole Potenza Denis

Austin, Tex., is a city made special by its people, food, music and wealth. Like most of Texas, it boasts bigness—big food, big cars, and big retailers. The original home of both Whole Foods and Central Market, Austin has been a pioneering town for the natural and specialty food industries.

Yet beneath the glitz of those two mega markets, there are many specialty food retailers who call the capital of Texas home. In a city that finds its identity somewhere between college town and staid seat of government, diverse retailers with a big sense of hospitality have discovered niches to cater to these Texans. Specialty Food Magazine recently visited four retailers within Austin’s city limits.

Grape Vine Market: Intimate Wine and Food
With a reputation as successful wine buyers and a passion for good wine and food, Greg Steiner and Chuck Huffaker decided seven years ago to share their knowledge with the rest of Austin. The result: Grape Vine Market, an 18,000 square-footer of highly collectible food and wine—along with some other culinary perks, including a cooking school—all in a setting crafted to make shoppers feel comfortable. “We have a lot of square feet, but we still create an intimate shopping experience,” says Steiner.

Being intimate is not just about sitting by the store’s fireplace eating a panini. It is, according to Steiner, having a friendly, approachable environment with an educated staff that helps break wine and food barriers. The offices are even in the middle of the store. Says Steiner, “We want to be available all the time for our customers.”

Greeted by warm lighting, a muted color scheme, and REM or Fleetwood Mac on the sound system, customers are first welcomed into the wine department, a 10,000-square-foot oval consisting of more than 5,500 labels from around the world. There are no aisles; instead racks are arranged asymmetrically to create flow and movement. No more than four racks sit together—approximately 12 feet with a lot of space in-between. “We did this so people can soak everything in and not get overwhelmed,” says Steiner.

All employees have solid wine experience and work at least six months on the register before they are on the floor. “We have success-oriented people that shop here who expect good things from themselves. We feel the same about our employees—we go after quality people who have a passion and a desire to learn about good food and wine,” Steiner remarks.

Grape Vine boasts the largest German and Italian wine selection in Texas and a rare wine room where one can spend $360 for a Montrachet Grand Cru. More reasonably priced selections such as Barbera from the Piedmont region of Italy ($7.99) or a South African Goats do Roam for under $10 can be found on the floor. Steiner, his partners and staff taste approximately 200 wines a week to determine what to add to the selection.

The 3,500 square feet of specialty foods do not disappoint. Grape Vine offers 200 cheeses, including a 60-month aged Gouda ($14.99/pound) and Majorero, a creamy, sweet goats’ milk cheese from the Canary Islands ($12.99.) Cured meats and pâtés such as Parmesan-encrusted Italian-style salami can be found in the deli. Chocolates, olive oils, vinegars, balsamics (aged from ten to 75 years) and specialty salts, pastas, and condiments are also available along with a wine accessory department. Steiner estimates 55 percent of sales in wine, 22 percent liquor and 6 percent specialty food. Gift baskets, cooking classes, cigars and miscellaneous products account for the rest.

Although each department has its own identity, the store has become more homogenized, offering comparative tastings with cheese and wine or beer and cheese; a recent Chimay beer and cheese tasting proved popular. You can even learn to build a pizza in the kitchen. (Grape Vine sells approximately 200 homemade pizzas a week.) And, while it is cooking, get a crash course in Chianti. Grape Vine Market, 7938 Great Northern Blvd.; 512.323.5900; www.grapevinemarket.com

Fresh Plus: An Austin Icon
In the older neighborhood of Clarksville—an area with a mix of people, culture and wealth—lies Fresh Plus, a grocer that is not only an Austin icon but also the neighborhood’s pantry.

It started in 1920, when A.C. Knippa opened a grocery store called Kash-Karry. At the peak of its existence, Kash-Karry had six locations—but only one goal in mind, to be a neighborhood store. In 1984, Jake Knippa, the founder’s grandson, changed the name to Fresh Plus.

When specialty foods came into the mix, along with a more comprehensive wine section and more personal service, Fresh Plus regained its confidence. “We carry traditional groceries and also try to appeal to people who like to cook and are looking for specialty items,” says David Wildermuth, office manager and wine buyer.

From students and faculty from the University of Texas only a couple of blocks away, to socialite business owners to the occasional punk-rocker, Fresh Plus feeds a diverse mix of personalities. The Deli offers old standbys such as chicken, potato and macaroni salads, along with Three-Cheese Meat Lasagna ($8.95/pound) and a whole roasted chicken at $5.99/pound. Jan’s homemade chocolate cake at $3.99/pound has been a best seller for 20 years. The meat department sells prime-aged beef along with prepared items such as Pork and Beef Meat Loaf ($4.99/pound). Ruby Trout is a good seller from the fish case.

Grocery and specialty sit side-by-side. For example, Fresh Plus carries 40 brands of olive oil ranging from low to high-end, including Laudemio Olive Oil at $38.99 for 16.9 ounces. Fresh Plus also boasts a large “taste of Texas.” TexaFrance Salsas and Pestos, Rose’s Salsa, Tom’s Tabouli, Kinky Friedman’s Salsa, Blue Bell Ice Cream, and Goodflow Juices and Honey, made only four miles from the store, are among the local showcased products. Fresh Plus, 1221 West Lynn St.; 512.477.5574

Phoenicia Bakery & Deli: International Delights
What started 20 years ago as a family-run wholesale business for pita and French bread has blossomed into a specialty international retailer and bakery with a devoted customer base. Phoenicia Bakery & Deli, with locations on both the north and south sides of Austin, attributes its success to a growing and ever-changing customer base.

“We have had an influx of people from all over the world, especially when the military base was next door,” says Owner Malek Abijaoud. When military personnel got a taste of something abroad, they immediately stopped in to see if he carried it.

“Ribena is a classic example,” he recalls. “We added it to our mix because so many people were asking for it.” Now, thanks to students from the nearby University, the growing number of computer companies and people with different cultural backgrounds, the 4,000-square-foot south store is home to hard-to-find Lebanese, Turkish, Armenian, Spanish, Italian, Greek, Russian, Polish, Hungarian and other European and South American specialty products. Not to mention the best deal for pita bread in town: six medium loaves for 75 cents.

“The name Phoenicia is very fitting,” remarks Abijaoud. “The people of Phoenicia were navigators and traders of the Mediterranean. Our products are a representation from all over the world.”

Many customers still just come in for a sandwich or bread; Phoenicia’s Roasted Chicken sandwich on a pita ($3.50) was noted “award-winning” by the Austin Chronicle. The homemade Tabouli Salad, stuffed grape leaves ($3.75/1/2 pound) and humus ($1.99/8 ounce) are best sellers; an olive bar and ten different kinds of feta are another main attraction. Hard-to-find items such as caraway oil, Lebanese date syrup, goats’ milk butter from France, Middle Eastern pomegranate paste and Russian catsup fill the shelves and refrigerated cases.

Abijaoud’s key to success is friendly service, and the personal touch. He touts the intimate atmosphere of a small specialty store and his ability, along with some of his 10-15 employees, to speak several languages, helpful when communicating with international customers. Customers spend on average $20-$30 each shopping trip. “Austin is a brand new city with the draw of new people,” says Abijaoud. “My customers are always keeping me informed. I learn from them every day.” Phoenicia Bakery & Deli South Store: 2912 South Lamar Blvd.; 512.447.4444 North Store: 4701A Burnet Rd.; 512.323.6770

Sun Harvest Farms: A Natural Institution
Owned by Wild Oats Markets, Sun Harvest has been an institution in Texas since 1979, when its first store opened in San Antonio. From vitamins to whole grains to gourmet coffee, each Sun Harvest features an in-store bakery, full-service meat market and distinct products that cater to specific dietary needs.

At the 18,000-square-foot store in Rosedale, a large organic bulk section reigns, with more than 400 items. Consumers can find Organic Trail Mix ($5.19/pound) along with bulk honey from Texas, maple syrup from Vermont and 25 varieties of wild rice.

The store also features wine, produce and deli departments, with an olive bar consisting of ten varieties and pre-packaged cheese, including alternatives such as vegan and dairy-free; pre-made sandwiches and a café/bakery with a potpourri of breads, pastries and muffins. Sun Harvest Farms, 4006 South Lamar Blvd.; 512.444.3079, www.wildoats.com.

Nicole Potenza Denis is senior editor of Specialty Food Magazine.