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From the July 2008 Issue of
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A Peek at Lower Manhattan's Sweet Eats

By JOSEPH FERRARO

A CANDY STORE'S SELECTION IS LIKE NEW YORK CITY ITSELF. A BLEND OF FLASHING COLORS AND INTRIGUING SCENTS, it's a mix of the home-style and the imported, the old-fashioned and the trendy. From Lower Manhattan's historic and chic neighborhoods—Soho to Chinatown to Little Italy and the Lower East Side—here is a mix of four old-time and cutting-edge-modern candy stores that offer a cross-section of the sweet treats the city has to offer.

Kee's Chocolate:
Soho's Minimalist Chocolatier

Seven years ago, Kee Ling Tong left her corporate job as a finance executive on Wall Street to pursue her dream of making decadent chocolates in her own store. Judging by a discerning repeat clientele and stacks of press, Tong's career change has been a good one.

The brick-walled shop in trendy Soho is divided into a prep area on one side where Tong creates her exotic handmade chocolates daily, and an adjacent minimalist retail section. Tong eschews what she calls overly sweet milk chocolate for an exclusive dark chocolate selection. Unlike some chocolatiers, she must refrigerate her tissue-paper-thin dark chocolate because she adds no preservatives. Her creations are infused with delectable fillings such as Thai chile, orange cognac and honey saffron. In addition, she carries eight types of macaroons, including passion fruit and rosewater lychee, as well as crème brulee-filled bon bons and green tea truffles. Each piece is priced at two dollars and tastes equally expensive.
Kee's Chocolate, 80 Thompson St.;
212.334.3284 keeschocolates.com

Aji Ichiban:
An Exotic "Munchies Paradise" in Chinatown

Aji Ichiban means "the best and superior" in Chinese, but owners Lai Chan Yuk Hing and Lai Hin Tai prefer to call the seven-year-old shop "munchies paradise" with its selection of more than 1,000 candy products. The store is self-serve and free samples abound, allowing first-timers and veterans alike to expand their palate on exotic Eastern confections such as white Rabbit Candy, a creamy milk confection wrapped in edible rice paper. The distinctive candy selection, sold by the pound, is complemented by dried and cured fruits as well as salted fish jerky, spicy baby crab cakes, scallop candy, salted and sour plums and sesame-flavored marshmallows to name a few.

The company was founded by Hing and Tai in 1993 and quickly became the leading confectionery retailer in Hong Kong with about 100 shops. There are five New York City locations, including the large Lafayette Street store. Aji Ichiban also has shops in China, Singapore and the Philippines.
Aji Ichiban, 188 Lafayette St.;
212.219.4010; ajiichiban.com

Papabubble:
A Sleek Candy Lounge/Viewing Gallery Hits Little Italy

Papabubble keeps you guessing. The name, in honor of the original owner from Barcelona, Tommy Tang, is deliberately silly and leads customers to believe the shop specializes in bubble gum. Instead, it offers 30 flavors of hard candy ranging from chocolate-filled coffee to caramel-filled apple to best-selling passion fruit.

In the shadow of Little Italy stalwart, Umberto's Clam House, international chain Papabubble brings a modern, sleek look to the neighborhood by displaying product in a lounge atmosphere. The back of the store serves as a candy laboratory where four to five batches are handmade on-site daily in view of customers.

Adept employees cajole, bend and blow candy through long pipes a'la Italy's Murano glassmakers. Papabubble also offers special orders including personalized candy inscriptions. The chain has developed a cult-like following in Europe at its locations in Tokyo, Amsterdam and Barcelona, and has plans to expand across the continent and in the U.S.
Papabubble, 380 Broome St.;
212.966.2599; papabubble.com

The Sweet Life:
The Lower East Side's Five and Dime

The store's motto, "anything can be dipped in chocolate," should be enough to intrigue foodies from near and far. On top of the promise to satisfy every imaginable chocolate craving, The Sweet Life is a trip back in time. The well-organized, 25-year-old store on the Lower East Side has a cozy five-and-dime atmosphere, with aisles and shelves packed with goodies from all eras. Pretzels, nuts, candy, dried fruit and more sit—wearing milk, white and dark chocolate coats—alongside lollipops, Jawbreakers and taffy. Selections can run the gamut from pumpkin pie fudge to gummy pet rats. For the undecided, owners Sam Greenfield and Diane Miller will create gift baskets brimming with assortments. The Sweet Life currently sells its products to caterers and upscale venues across the city and guarantees shipping around the world within five days.
The Sweet Life, 63 Hester St.;
800.NYC.NUTS, 212.598.0092; sweetlifeny.com

Joseph Ferraro is a food and wine writer for Not For Tourists Philadelphia, gayot.com and Lifestyle Magazine.

Other Notables Across NYC
Among the city's dozens of confection shops, candy stores and chocolatiers, here are a few more must-sees.
Christopher Norman Chocolates Factory & Gallery Shop
60 New St. (Financial District)
212.402.1243
christophernormanchocolates.com
A relative newcomer on the gourmet chocolate scene, Christopher Norman arrived in 1994 and has taken its place among longer-established brands. Each piece is made by hand in the Financial District-based factory. Sweet Surprise: Vegan Truffles

Dylan's Candy Bar
1011 Third Ave. (Upper East Side)
dylanscandybar.com
In 2001, Dylan Lauren, daughter of fashion icon Ralph Lauren, had a vision to grow a candy store into an international brand. Now, with more than 5,000 items, the vision extends to signature clothing, party rooms and a spa on the premises.
Sweet Surprise: Chocolate Clodhoppers

Economy Candy
108 Rivington St. (Lower East Side)
800.352.4544
economycandy.com
Since 1937, Economy has sold hundreds of varieties of chocolates, candies, nuts and dried fruits. The store is packed to the rafters with every conceivable hard candy including classic Pez, Bottlecaps and over-sized Jawbreakers.
Sweet Surprise: Hard-to-find candy collectibles including Pez dispensers





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