By TANYA HENRY

EVEN A LAGGING ECONOMY CAN’T SLOW DOWN SAN FRANCISCO. The recent and historically significant Slow Food Nation event drew as many as 60,000 people to the area to celebrate all things food. A new culinary arts program has just opened its doors and the esteemed Michelin Guide continues to recognize the city’s best restaurants with its highly coveted stars.

Restaurants continue to open; two additions to the city’s waterfront, Epic Roasthouse and Waterbar, were masterminded by longtime restaurateur and designer Pat Kuleto, and add glitz to the skyline. But mostly the year saw moderately priced neighborhood restaurants improving and shifting to meet the needs of their loyal clienteles.

American Cuisine                  Ethnic Cuisine French Cuisine Italian Cuisine

San Francisco Favorites         Neighborhood Finds New & Noteworthy

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Town Hall
This glitzy (and sometimes noisy) restaurant is the brainchild of chef-brothers Steven and Mitchell Rosenthal of Postrio and über host Doug Washington. A refurbished historic building provides the backdrop for the brothers’ regional American dishes like a peanut and tasso crusted pork chop with buttermilk smashed potatoes and a New Orleans-style gumbo. Be sure to save room for the exquisite desserts. 342 Howard St. (at Fremont St.); 415.908.3900. Expensive.

Range
There was a time when a snazzy restaurant like Range with its seafoam green walls and concrete-topped bar embedded with glowing metal stars would be out of place in the Mission district, but not anymore. This sleek spot delivers exceptionally well-executed dishes like a slow-cooked pork chop with mayacoba beans and a memorable roasted chicken with a pecan, pancetta and roasted scallion bread salad. Snag a seat at the bar and enjoy a house cocktail at this stylish and welcoming Valencia Street gem. 842 Valencia St. (between 19th and 20th Sts.); 415.282.8283. Expensive.

Michael Mina
Renowned chef Michael Mina’s namesake restaurant in the posh Westin St. Francis has received four stars from San Francisco Chronicle food critic, Michael Bauer. The elegant space features 20-foot columns and sophisticated creme-colored hues.Prix-fixe tasting menus are offered that feature a main ingredient prepared three different ways. This high concept dining might include variations of foie gras, pork loin, Kobe beef rib roast or seared diver scallops. Mina also offers more familiar items from his many years at Aqua such as lobster pot pie and a black mussel soufflé.  The Westin St. Francis, 335 Powell St. (at Geary St.); 415.397.9222. Very expensive.

Two
Owner David Gingrass and Chef Bridget Batson have revamped the old Hawthorne Lane and created a comfortable restaurant with homey offerings and a trendy vibe. Savory dishes include fried oysters with celery root remoulade and chewy bucatini. A more casual menu of pizzas, soups and salads is available during the day. The desserts are divine. 22 Hawthorne Ln. (at Howard St.); 415.777.9779. Moderate.

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Aziza—Moroccan
The best way to enjoy Chef Mourad Lahlou’s delicious food is with the five-course tasting menu that includes various Mediterranean spreads, grilled pita bread, roasted bell peppers, honeyed beets, eggplant and more. Don’t miss the herb-infused cocktails—ideal for sipping at this sexy Richmond District favorite. 5800 Geary Blvd. (at 22nd Ave.); 415.752.2222. Inexpensive.


Kappa—Japanese
For the truly adventurous, Kappa, a tiny ten-seat Japantown restaurant, introduces diners to a popular form of dining in Tokyo known as koryori-ya, or small plates, that emphasizes the ingredients’ freshness and intensity. No sushi is on the menu, but sashimi and plenty of fresh and unusual fish preparations are prepared daily. Reservations are a must, and prices are high—but worth it for a one-of-a-kind dining experience. 1700 Post St., Ste. K, (near Webster St.); 415.673.6004. Expensive.


Dosa—Indian
Dosa is one of the most hip and accessible Indian food restaurants in the city. It specializes in South Indian cuisine that includes crepe-like dosas and intriguing curries. The menu is almost entirely vegetarian, but there are a few meat dishes offered, like a lamb curry. Desserts include the rasmalai, a soothing dish of sweet cheese patties in cream and cardamom. 995 Valencia St. (near 21st St.); 415.642.3672. Moderate.


Poleng Lounge—Asian
Small plates of Asian street food in a nightclub setting is what Poleng Lounge is all about. Filipino, Balinese and Malaysian influences along with tea infusions find their way onto the almost 20 small-plate offerings. Buddha’s Treasures (pan-fried dumplings) and a coconut curry duo dish are superb. 1751 Fulton St. (at Masonic Ave.); 415.441.1751. Moderate.


Slanted Door—Vietnamese
This world-class Vietnamese restaurant has permanently settled into its chic digs in the Ferry Building. Floor-to-ceiling windows boast breathtaking views of the bay and Charlie Phan’s food remains as good as ever. Favorites include shaking beef, chicken clay pot and grapefruit and jicama salad. Phan’s cooking is in high demand—reservations are hard to come by. 1 Ferry Building (Embarcadero at Market St.); 415.861.8032. Very expensive.

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Coi
Known for his innovative creations and intellectual approach to food, Chef-Owner Daniel Patterson has just landed four coveted stars from San Francisco Chronicle food critic Michael Bauer and two stars from the esteemed Michelin Guide. Although you will see fewer foams than at his previous Frisson, he is still creating adventurous dishes. His prix-fixe menu changes daily, but recent offerings include shiny beets in a citrus-scented gel and smoked and seared bone marrow served with white and red pomegranate. A quince parfait with cocoa nibs and violet ice cream rounded out a recent menu—all with a price tag of $120. The menu options are prix-fixe only, and the environs are understated, even demure. 373 Broadway (at Montgomery St.); 415.393.9000. Very expensive.

Canteen
Once a coffee shop, Chef-Owner Dennis Leary transformed this tiny Tenderloin space into what he refers to as a French diner. Formerly of Rubicon, Leary applies his well-honed French technique to memorable breakfast, lunch and dinner dishes. Just to watch this chef in action is a treat and his food, though deceptively simple, is clearly prepared from the heart. Look for seasonal soups and plenty of classics with a twist. The space is small and the wait can be long at times—but for anyone who loves food, it’s worth it. 817 Sutter St. (near Jones St.); 415.928.8870. Moderate.

Plouf
On an alley tucked away in the Financial District, this lively “slice of France” bistro specializes in seafood. But the main draw is the mussels prepared seven different ways, including a roasted garlic and shallot version and a heartier one with leeks and a mushroom ragout. As the charming waiters will inform you, pommes frites are an essential accompaniment. 40 Belden Pl. (at Bush St.); 415.986.6491. Moderate.

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Perbacco
The perfect antidote to chilly San Francisco evenings is downtown Perbacco’s gutsy Piemonte- and Ligurian-style fare. An extensive menu boasts house-cured meats, inventive salads and hearty pastas, risottos and main courses. Every item bursts with flavor and the plush environs add a celebratory element. The wide selection can feel overwhelming, but a professional wait staff is eager to help—especially with cheese and wine pairing recommendations. 230 California St. (at Battery); 415.955.0663. Expensive.

A16
This Marina restaurant is known for its thin Neopolitan-style pizza and rustic Italian dishes. House-cured salumi and “Meatballs on Mondays” are also favorites. The narrow interior features an open kitchen that gives prime views of the flaming pizza oven. Reasonable prices and an intriguing wine list make this a popular, local hangout. Noise levels can get high. 2355 Chestnut St. (btwn. Scott and Divisadero Sts.); 415.771.2216. Moderate.

Delfina
It’s the straightforward, simply prepared Italian food that draws crowds to this Mission neighborhood restaurant. Fresh, seasonal ingredients take center stage in Craig Stoll’s soulful dishes like ravioli filled with spinach and locally made ricotta or grilled calamari served over frisee and warm white beans. Or, try Stoll’s exceptional thin-crusted pies with seasonal toppings sourced right in the neighborhood. 3621 18th St. (at Guerrero); 415.552.4055. Moderate.

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Zuni Café
This perennial favorite will turn 30 next year. Chef-Owner Judy Rodgers continues to serve her famous roasted chicken, burgers and Caesar salads. Young hipsters to San Francisco society rub elbows over fresh oysters and cocktails at this quintessential city spot. 1658 Market St. (at Gough St.); 415.552.2522. Expensive.


Boulevard
For fabulous, albeit pricey, contemporary American food, Boulevard can’t be beat. More than ten years ago, Nancy Oakes teamed up with designer Pat Kuleto and created this gem of a restaurant near the Embarcadero. With its stunning belle époque decor and consistently well-prepared items like the fire-roasted filet mignon and butterscotch crème brûlée, it remains one of San Francisco’s most popular restaurants. One Mission St. (at Steuart St.); 415.543.6084. Expensive.


Gary Danko
This year the Zagat Guide named Gary Danko the most popular restaurant in the Bay area. The French-California-inspired food includes such dishes as glazed oysters with caviar, wild-mushroom-stuffed quail and a lobster salad served with persimmons and a chestnut mousse. Armani-clad wait staff are well versed at explaining the prix-fixe menu options that allow for mixing and matching. 800 N. Point St. (at Hyde St.); 415.749.2060. Very expensive.

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NoPa—North Panhandle
Fabulous food, unpretentious staff and a communal table that stretches the length of the restaurant are all good reasons to seek out this neighborhood hot spot. NoPa (which stands for North of the Panhandle) attracts a mixed crowd, serves food until 1 a.m. and has become a hangout for chefs and folks in the restaurant industry. Some of the simple, rustic favorites include rotisserie chicken, grilled pork chops, Mediterranean fish stew and hamburger and fries. Don’t miss the warm doughnut holes. Noise levels can be high. 560 Divisadero St. (at Hayes St.); 415.864.8643. Moderate.


Incanto—Noe Valley
Prepare to be seduced by the flavors, smells and wines of Tuscany at this charming restaurant. The menu features fresh, locally produced ingredients. Look for house-made pasta with pork ragout, braised meats and a divine panna cotta. The restaurant also has its own filtration system, and when diners are seated, they’re offered sparkling or still water at no charge. 1550 Church St. (at Duncan St.); 415.641.4500. Moderate.


1550 Hyde Café & Wine Bar—Russian Hill
This 36-seat gem with its sparse industrial décor offers superb, ingredient-driven California cuisine. Rustic dishes like roasted chicken breast with morels and braised rabbit over spatzle are excellent. Wine flights are offered along with a thoughtful wine list. 1550 Hyde St. (at Jackson St.); 415.775.1550. Moderate.

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Epic Roasthouse
One of restaurateur Pat Kuleto’s splashy new openings (the other is Waterbar) Epic Roasthouse sits right on the waterfront and offers breathtaking views, hearty-sized portions and stellar service—all with an epic price tag. Celebrated chef Jan Birnbaum offers everything from whole wood-oven-roasted lobster to homey sides like macaroni and cheese to large cuts of beef. The prime rib is a favorite and is only served until 8 p.m. 369 Embarcadero (at Harrison St.); 415.369.9955. Very expensive.

Beretta
This Mission hotspot features exceptional cocktails, hearty risottos and an assortment of wood-oven pizzas. Alternating dark brown and white walls provide the perfect backdrop for Chef-Owner Ruggero Gadaldi’s well-priced, Italian menu. Beretta has already developed a following for its consistently good food and friendly service. Noise levels can be high. 1199 Valencia St. (at 23rd St.); 415.695.1199. Moderate.

Yoshi’s San Francisco
Finally, the beloved East Bay jazz club/restaurant has come to San Francisco. This sister restaurant blends fine dining and live music all under one roof in a magnificent multi-level space. Chef Sho Kamio flawlessly executes his menu of Japanese specialties including pristine sushi, grilled meats and herb-roasted fish. 1330 Fillmore St. (btwn. Eddy and Ellis Sts.); 415.655.5600. Expensive.

Orson
One of the most anticipated restaurant openings this year was Elizabeth Falkner’s Orson. With its edgy, warehouse interior and a menu described as “traditional California that flirts with the future,” Orson has received mixed reviews. Recent offerings included roasted pork belly croquettes and smoked trout with housemade brioche. A cashew soup with white peonyfoam was on the dessert menu. For adventurous eaters with money to spend, this SoMa spectacle offers a one-of-a-kind dining experience. 508 Fourth St. (at Bryant St.); 415.777.1508. Expensive.

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Tanya Henry is a freelance writer who lives in the Bay area.