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NASFT MEMBER

NASFT MEMBER




From the July/August 2009 Issue of
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 Read On
Sure Bets for Classic Dogs



Haute Dogs

By Kara Mayer Robinson

cuisine spotlight

Healthful ingredients, creative 
preparation and recession-friendly prices have made gourmet hot dogs big business in New York.
 Here’s where to find them.


Hot dogs are rarely described as gourmet or healthful, but a slew of New York restaurants are bridging the gap between “dirty water dogs” sold on street corners and high-quality cuisine. What began with a few hot dog joints stepping up their game with fresh toppings has morphed into a citywide trend of turning average dogs into specialty meals for $10 and under.

Customers clamoring for these dressed up dogs include foodies seeking European-style sausages, parents hunting for healthier kid food and 9-to-5ers craving complex flavors. Here are some of the hot dog trendsetters:


Crif Dogs: Decadent Flavor Combinations in the East Village
The Crif dog is not an example of a more healthful dog—it’s deep fried in vats of bubbling oil and often wrapped in bacon. But the dogs are naturally smoked and made with only beef and have distinctive flavors. Manager Jon Hochstat says the dogs are inspired by cutting-edge chefs and restaurateurs; flavor combinations—like the Teriyaki-Pineapple-Green Onion Tsunami Dog and the Bacon-Avocado-Sour Cream Chihuahua—are big sellers. Crif has already incorporated hot dogs into breakfast (dogs with eggs, bacon and cheese) and next up, says Hochstat, is a dog dessert. Crif Dogs, 113 St. Marks Pl., 212.614.2728.


Dogmatic: All-Natural Sausages at Union Square
This “Gourmet Sausage System” began as a cart across from famed Magnolia Bakery in Greenwich Village, and now has a brick-and-mortar branch. The hormone-, antibiotic- and nitrate-free, all-natural sausages are custom made by Sullivan County’s Violet Hills Farm. They’re grilled to order then popped into warm, artisan baguettes from Pain D’Avignon. Dogmatic’s food sourcing, coupled with its complex sauce pairings—like Truffle Gruyere and Sundried Tomato Feta—make it perfectly suited to capitalize on the food-enthusiast crowd that resides around the area’s Greenmarket. Dogmatic, 26 E. 17th St., 212.414.0600; eatdogmatic.com.


F&B güdtfood: European-Style Hot Dogs in Midtown and Chelsea
Conceived by an Englishman and a German craving European street food stateside, F&B quickly attracted attention and garnered high praise for its culinary creations. The Great Dane—a pork dog with a ketchup-and-mustard dressing, pickled cucumbers and roasted onions—was publicly deemed delicious by master chefs Jean-Georges Vongerichten and Daniel Boulud. Others, like the pork Prairie Dog and the veal-pork Champion Dog are repeatedly touted in Japanese magazines. But the secret of their success, says Co-owner Till Horkenbach, is high-quality ingredients like all-beef dogs, premium pork and whole wheat buns. That’s what customers demand, he says. Case in point: The 100-calorie smoked tofu dog is as popular with carnivores as it is among vegetarians. F&B güdtfood, 150 E. 52nd St., 212.421.8600; and 269 W. 23rd St., 646.486.4441; gudtfood.com.


Schnäck: Historic Dogs With Premium Toppings Available (Catered) to Your Doorstep 
After five years in Brooklyn, Schnäck shut its doors, keeping only the catering leg open. Luckily for loyalists looking to book an event, the full menu is at their disposal. Most popular is the 100 percent Black Angus Beef dog, custom made by Stahl-Meyer, the manufacturer that’s been supplying New York City hot dog sellers since 1836. What makes a Schnäck dog pop are the 19 gourmet toppings like Potato Chip Dust, Pineapple Mustard and Kimchi Kraut. Grilling and steaming bumps up the dog’s health quotient while environmentally friendly practices like sourcing locally supplied ingredients add to Schnäck’s feel-good factor. Schnäck, available through Catering by Andy Towler, 207.299.2438.


Shake Shack: Gourmet Road Food in the Flatiron District, Upper West Side and at Citi Field in Flushing, Queens 
With renowned culinary guru Danny Meyer at the helm, it’s no wonder locals flock to this “modern-day roadside stand” to score staples with gastronomic flair. The food is so popular that the lines can stretch on for up to an hour on any given day. The Shake Shack may be best known for its burgers and shakes, but its Shack-cago Dog—Vienna all-beef topped with mustard, Rick’s Pick’s relish, onion, pickle, tomato, sport pepper and celery salt—has just as much pull. Other specialty ingredients, like Schaller and Weber kraut and Usinger’s Smoked Chicken and Apple bratwurst, help make these hot dogs a modern-day New York City staple. Shake Shack, Madison Square Park (near Madison Ave. and E. 23rd St.), 212.889.6600; 366 Columbus Ave., 646.747.8770; Citi Field, Flushing Queens; shakeshacknyc.com.


Willie’s Dawgs: Healthy Family-Friendly Favorite in Brooklyn
“Our plan is to honor the hot dog and serve the highest quality product most deliciously,” says proprietor Ellen Lutter. That’s how this mom-and-pop shop (husband Tom Anderson is co-owner) has struck it big with health-conscious locals, vegetarians and students from the nearby middle school. Parents are happy to feed their children hot dogs made from all-natural, grass-fed beef (like the Best in Show dog), says Anderson. Also popular are the Phoney Baloney Dawg, which is actually a carrot marinated in spices and served on a house-baked challah bun, and the Downward Facing (tofu) Dawg. The menu also boasts fresh, premium toppings and sides prepared on-site—like homemade slaw and fresh-cut fries cooked in peanut oil. Willie’s Dawgs, 351 Fifth Ave., Brooklyn, 718.832.2941; 
williesdawgs.com. |SFM|

Kara Mayer Robinson is a freelance writer whose work has appeared in Time Out New York, Women’s Health & Fitness and Parents magazines.




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