A Food Destination That Dazzles

Restaurant Guide: San Francisco

This year saw multiple sister restaurants sprout from some of our favorite restaurateurs. The food-truck movement continues to grow, and ever-popular ice cream is reaching new heights with the likes of Elizabeth Falkner concocting unexpected delights out of her transformed Citizen Cake storefront. Superb regional Italian, authentic Cajun-Creole, and Izakaya styles all top the list of new openings in one of the country’s leading food destinations. Bon appétit!

by Tanya Henry

San Francisco’s dining scene is booming with new restaurants from beloved chefs, neighborhood favorites, food trucks and an explosion in sweet treats.

New and Notable

AQ Seasonal Restaurant & Bar

AQ, which translates to As Quoted in restaurant lingo, is without a doubt the hotspot du jour. Chef-partner Mark Liberman has created an intriguing seasonal menu. Recent offerings included monkfish roasted with hops; lamb tongue with fresh lentils, smoked dates and hibiscus onions; and charred avocado, Monterey squid, parsnips, sesame and grapefruit. Cocktails are equally compelling with the restaurant’s signature mimosa featuring fresh-pressed pear and spiced pear nectar. A squash flip includes carpano antica (vermouth), butternut squash and whipped egg. Interestingly, just as the menu will change with the seasons, so too will the décor with tree installations that have changing colored foliage. 1085 Mission St. (between 6th and 7th); 415.341.9000. $$$

Boxing Room

Cajun-Creole is on the menu at the Boxing Room, brought to you from the folks behind Absinthe in Hayes Valley. The chic, high-ceiling room that used to be home to Citizen Cake now offers authentic Bayou dishes prepared by Louisiana native Justin Simoneaux. Comfy booths and the sleek zinc bar are equally inviting spots to enjoy fried chicken, etoufee and po’ boys. Spicy boiled peanuts and a cold beer from the impressive on-tap offerings are reason enough to visit this hip newcomer. 399 Grove St. (at Gough St.);
415.430.6590. $$$

Cotogna

Heath Ceramics tableware, enthusiastic servers and a convivial 50-seat dining room perfectly complement the superb rustic Italian menu at Cotogna. Chef Michael Tusk has expanded his exquisite Quince restaurant with this corner spot (cotogna is quince in Italian), allowing for a more casual experience that won’t break the bank. Warm ricotta with pumpkin and sage; sea urchin, jalapeño and cauliflower wood-fired pizza; and quince and pear bread pudding with cardamom crème anglaise are just a few of the mouthwatering offerings at this hotspot. Reservations are tough to get, so call in advance—way in advance. 490 Pacific Ave. (at Montgomery St.); 415.775.8508. $$$

Locanda

Craig and Annie Stoll have expanded their empire with their latest venture Locanda (Italian for guesthouse), which celebrates Roman-style fare. An open kitchen allows diners to view the very capable chef Anthony Strong as he and his crew serve up housemade pastas that include such inventive preparations as fusilli with sardines, fennel pollen and currants, rabbit sugo fettucini, and for offal lovers, plenty of intriguing tripe, brains and oxtail options. The wine list offers ample selections from Rome and beyond. 557 Valencia St. (between 16th and 17th Sts.); 415.863.6800. $$$

Nojo

American born chef-owner Greg Dunmore (previously at Terra and Ame Restaurant) combines his passion for Japanese cooking and love of local ingredients at his neighborhood Nojo (Japanese for farm). His deceptively simple Izakaya menu is divided into two sections: On a Stick and Not on a Stick. Numerous chicken preparations include breast, shiso and umeboshi, and thigh with green onions, sea salt and lemon. Pork and duck options are available on a stick, while vegetable tempura and a salad of Tokyo turnips and a walnut dressing are served in elegant earthenware (sans sticks). Nojo has as many as 10 different sakes and a number of hearty beers by the glass and bottle. 231 Franklin St. (at Linden St.); 415.896.4587. $$

San Francisco Favorites

Delfina

It’s the straightforward, simply prepared Italian food that continues to draw crowds to this Mission District restaurant. Fresh, seasonal ingredients take center stage in Craig Stoll’s soulful dishes, such as ravioli filled with spinach and locally made ricotta, or the grilled calamari served over frisee and warm white beans. If it’s pizza you’re
craving, try Stoll’s exceptional thin-crust pies with seasonal toppings. Prices are reasonable for this quality fare. 3621 18th St. (at Guerrero St.); 415.552.4055. $$

Dosa

Dosa is one of the most hip and accessible Indian restaurants in the city. Specializing in South Indian cuisine, the restaurant serves the eponymous crepe-like savory crepes and intriguing curries. The menu is almost entirely vegetarian, but lamb curry and other classics are available for meat lovers. Desserts include the rasmalai, a soothing dish of sweet cheese patties in cream and cardamom. 995 Valencia St. (near 21st St.); 415.642.3672. Second location at 1700 Fillmore St.; 415.441.3672. $$

Fleur de Lys

Frequently referred to as the most romantic, dining experience in the city, this Nob Hill restaurant is a study in opulence. From the billowing tented fabrics in the dining room to masterfully prepared filet mignon and vegetarian delicacies, celebrity chef a.k.a. DJ Hubert Keller continues to wow and enchant his diners. 777 Sutter St. (at Jones St.); 415.673.7779. $$$$

Gary Danko

Now in its seventh year, Gary Danko continues to garner rave reviews. (Giants pitcher Brian Wilson famously gave it “14 stars.”) The French-Californian–inspired meals include such dishes as glazed oysters with caviar, wild mushroom–stuffed quail, and lobster salad served with persimmons and a chestnut mousse. The Armani-clad wait staff is well versed in explaining the prix fixe menu options that allow for mixing and matching. 800 N. Point St. (at Hyde St.); 415.749.2060. $$$$

Quince

This longtime favorite has settled comfortably into its Jackson Square digs. Owners Michael and Lindsay Tusk offer both an a la carte menu and two tasting menus that change nightly. Housemade pastas and slow-cooked meat dishes remain highlights here. With the couple’s newest venture Cotogna on the corner, you can now enjoy a more rustic version of this favorite at lower prices in a more casual setting—if you can get a reservation, that is. 470 Pacific Ave. (at Montgomery St.); 415.775.8500. $$$$

Slanted Door

Not surprisingly, this world-class Vietnamese restaurant is busy every night of the week. Chef Charlie Phan’s menu is as good as ever. Favorites include shaking beef, chicken clay pot and grapefruit and jicama salad. Phan’s cooking is in high demand; if you can’t get a table, try his second Out the Door restaurant (on Bush St. at Fillmore), which offers a similar selection and breakfast too. The wine list at Slanted Door is one of the best around. Ferry Building, 1 Ferry Building (Embarcadero at Market St.); 415.861.8032. $$$

Zuni Café

Chef-owner Judy Rodgers serves her famous roasted chicken, burgers and Caesar salads at this perennial favorite. Patrons range from young hipsters to San Francisco socialites rubbing elbows over fresh oysters and cocktails at this quintessential city spot. 1658 Market St. (at Gough St.); 415.552.2522. $$$

Neighborhood Finds

Aziza (Richmond)

The best way to enjoy Chef Mourad Lahlou’s delicious food is to order the generously portioned five-course tasting menu that comprises various Mediterranean spreads, grilled pita bread, roasted bell peppers, honeyed beets, eggplant and more. The herb-infused cocktails are a must-try, ideal for sipping at this sexy Richmond District favorite. 5800 Geary Blvd. (at 22nd Ave.); 415.752.2222. $$

Bar Agricole (Mission)

This “farm bar”—whose name also refers to a rum that hails from the Caribbean—opened its doors last year. The 4,000-square-foot spectacle features cement booths, sleek architecture and plenty of specialty libations, many of which include—you guessed it—agricole rum. Tequila, whiskey and gin are also in good supply, and drinks sport engaging names like Star Daisy, Opalescence and Moonraker. Owner and mixologist extraordinaire Thad Volger handles the cocktail arena, while an intriguing menu complements the liquid delights with such items as mussels with leeks and corn pudding with okra and padron peppers. 355 11th St. (between Harrison and Folsom Sts.); 415.355.9400. $$$

Domo (Hayes Valley)

This cozy neighborhood restaurant is no more than a U-shaped sushi bar and a few tables, two of which sit outside. This inviting space is home to many inventive rolls, from sweet potato to kobe beef interpretations. Don’t miss the firecracker balls: spicy tuna rolls breaded, fried and served with a spicy mayonnaise and unagi sauce. The fresh nigiri offerings include the usual suspects: maguro, hamachi, tako and uni, among others. 511 Laguna St. (at Linden St.); 415.861.8887. $$

Flour + Water (Mission)

This neighborhood restaurant hasn’t stopped buzzing since it opened two years ago. Chef Thomas McNaughton is behind the exceptionally well-made Neapolitan-style pizzas and inventive from-scratch pastas. As the name suggests, this restaurant takes flour and water quite seriously, reflected by the daily changing menu featuring such delectable choices as paparadelle with braised pork shoulder and broccoli rabe or a verzada pizza prepared with braised savoy cabbage, prosciutto and pecorino cheese. The Italian wine list features plenty of obscure, tasty selections. 2401 Harrison St. (at 20th St.); 415.826.7000. $$

Nopa (North Panhandle)

Fabulous food, an unpretentious staff and a long communal table that stretches the length of the restaurant are all good reasons to seek out this neighborhood favorite. Nopa (an abbreviation for “north of the panhandle”) attracts a mixed crowd, serving until 1 a.m. (often accompanied by high noise levels), and has even become a hangout for chefs and other food-industry folk. Entrees include rotisserie chicken, grilled pork chop, Mediterranean fish stew, and hamburger and fries. Don’t miss the warm doughnut holes. 560 Divisadero St. (at Hayes St.); 415.864.8643. $$ |SFM|

Tanya Henry is the restaurant reviewer for the Marin Independent Journal.

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