San Francisco’s Re-energized Restaurant Scene - Bar Food

The city by the Bay is enjoying a wealth of new openings from revamped classics to trendy newcomers where cocktails and creative fare are the stars of the menu.

By Tanya Henry

If the boon of restaurant openings this year is any indication of an improving economy, then San Francisco is back in the black. Along with celebrity chefs, celebrated mixologists have jumped into the game, giving libations a leading role at such newcomers as Comstock Saloon and Bar Agricole. As usual, nothing is ever dull in a town this chock-full of food lovers.

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The line between bar and restaurant seems to get fuzzier by the day. And though these are not exclusively drinking establishments, emphasis is on the cocktail/wine/beer components of these lively gathering places.

BAR AGRICOLE

355 11th St. (at Harrison St.); P: 415.355.9400.
Price Range: $$$

This long-awaited “farm bar,” whose name also refers to a rum that hails from the Caribbean, finally opened its doors in August. The 4,000-square-foot spectacle features cement booths, sleek architecture and plenty of specialty libations, many of which include—you guessed it—agricole rhum. Tequila, whiskey and gin are also in good supply and are featured in drinks with engaging names like Star Daisy, Opalescence and Moonraker. Owner and mixologist extraordinaire Thad Volger does the honors in the cocktail arena, while an intriguing menu complements the liquid delights with such items as mussels with leeks, and corn pudding with okra and padron peppers.

COMSTOCK SALOON

155 Columbus Ave.; P: 415.617.0071.
Price Range: $$

A slice of the Barbary Coast is alive again at this refurbished North Beach tavern that was home to numerous watering holes from as early as the turn of the century. A beautifully transformed space complete with a 1907 carved wood bar gives celeb bartenders Jimmy Hollinger and Johnny Raglin of Absinthe plenty of room to show off their considerable talents. Classic cocktails (with a twist) are front and center here along with a dose of hearty fare including a brisket, grilled trout and pigs in a blanket.

HOG & ROCKS

34311 19th St. (at Mission); P: 415.550.8627.
Price Range: $$

Described as San Francisco’s first and only ham and oyster bar, this Mission newcomer serves swine and bivalves until 1 a.m. Take a seat at the communal table across from the bar and order a plate of oysters (about 5-6 are offered) along with artisan ham that’s alternately served with whiskey-glazed almonds or roasted apricots. Heartier options like bratwurst and beef patty melts are also on the menu. Cocktails are classic, but the wine and sparkling options pair particularly well with the briny oyster offerings.

TIPSY PIG

2231 Chestnut St. (between Pierce and Scott Sts.); P: 415.292.2300.
Price Range: $$

This year-old gastrotavern has quickly become a Marina/Cow Hollow favorite. The bar here gets ear-splittingly loud and boisterous; for a more civilized experience, head to the library in the back room. Chimay-infused sliders, burrata topped bruschetta, and smoked trout and spinach salad leave no doubt this place offers well-above-average pub fare. San Francisco Chronicle food critic Michael Bauer claims the macaroni and cheese here is the best in the city. An impressive selection of beer both on tap and by the bottle is worth investigating.

WEXLER’S

568 Sacramento St. (near Montgomery St.); P: 415.983.0102.
Price Range: $$$

Not technically a bar, this sexy all white FiDi attraction features a “farm to table approach to barbecue.” Smoky southern flavors carry over into cocktail offerings served up by owner/bartender Matt Wexler, who tends over his sleek, well-stocked bar with top-shelf offerings and some lesser-known elixirs. Of course, all of them pair well with the well-crafted barbecue offerings from Chef Charlie Kleinman’s kitchen, including such enticing items as barbecued quail with creamy cole slaw, cornmeal-crusted skate with pulled pork stuffing and smoked short ribs.

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