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Chocolate's Evolving Taste

ne-note sugary chocolate treats such as M & M’s® and Snickers® bars Have given way to artisan truffles made with lemon, basil, sherry vinegar or beer; chocolates accented with exotic spices; and nuanced bars lauding a new lexicon of virtues such as single origin and high cocoa content—all creating an evolution of taste satisfaction for consumers.

“Today the word ‘chocolate’ has great cache, notes Joan Steuer, president of Los Angeles-based Chocolate Marketing. “People are no longer asking for candy bars, they are indulging in a chocolate bar.

Daily Indulgences
According to Vienna, Va.’s Chocolate Manufacturers Assoc-iation, total retail sales of all chocolate rose 5.6 percent to $15.1 billion in 2004, in part because of its shift from a holiday extravagance to a regular treat. A recent report on premium chocolate by Mintel International Group, Ltd., a U.K.-based market research firm, notes that chocolate’s popularity is “driven by customers who tend to be more sophisticated in their food choices, more open to new tastes and more willing to give themselves daily indulgences.

“American consumers are adding smaller amounts of better-quality chocolates to their diets every day, remarks Jacques Torres, award-winning pastry chef and owner of Jacques Torres Chocolate Haven, New York City. “They are not just purchasing items for special occasions.

Retailers are seeing the results of chocolate’s new status as a frequent luxury. “Chocolate is not only our number-one selling confection, but the top-selling product in our entire specialty section, remarks Lisa Santos, owner of Southport Grocery, Chicago. Santos, who has doubled her chocolate SKUs since January, reports steady chocolate sales year-round.

High-quality chocolate has become increasingly available through specialty shops, natural food stores, department stores and a growing number of supermarkets as well as online. Jerry Kryszek and his wife, Joanne, owners of Chocosphere.com, started their Internet site in 1998 with five chocolate brands, mostly from France and Belgium. Today the site boasts more than 32 brands such as Callebaut, Scharffen Berger, Dagoba and Amedei that span the globe from Italy to Spain to Israel to the U.S. The bulk of Kryszek’s business, he says, are shoppers looking for a satisfying treat. “People are starting to enjoy chocolate bars as much as they do wine, he notes.

The New Language of Chocolate
Like wine, chocolate has developed its own terminology. Rather than descriptors such as dark or milk, chocolate makers are educating shoppers about terms like cocoa content (the total percentage of the chocolate bar that is made from cocoa beans) and single origin as indications of flavor.

The term single origin chocolate (also referred to as pure origin) signals to consumers that there is a world beyond the Hershey bar. It identifies cacao beans from a specific country, region, plantation or estate where terroir influences aroma and flavor profiles. “Single origin allows you to discover what chocolate really tastes like from a particular area, explains Timothy Moley, owner of Boulder, Colo.’s Chocolove. “It is not a universal blend with uniform flavor, it has more vigor. As location and vintage change, so will cocoa harvests, producing varying subtle flavor nuances. “These nuances make eating single origins more interesting as there are more pronounced flavors, adds Moley.

Chocolate makers are showcasing the genetics inherent in particular beans. E. Guittard, Burlingame, Calif., recently released three single origin varietals in 2-ounce eating bars. Underscoring the distinct flavors of the region and the ancient cacao tree type from which it came, E. Guittard’s 65 percent varietals consists of Ambanja from Madagascar, Chucuri from Colombia and Sur del Lago from Venezuela.

Similarly, Lake Champlain Chocolates in Burlington, Vt., emphasizes single origin with its Small World Select Origin high cocoa content line. The line offers 0.28-ounce bite-sized squares from four different areas that are ideal for in-store chocolate tastings. Detailed Packaging Is chocolate becoming too complicated?

“The emerging language of chocolate is more innovative and sophisticated, notes Chocolate Marketing’s Steuer. “However, the average customer still associates chocolate with terminology such as semisweet and bittersweet, dark and milk.

To help both retailers and consumers transition into understanding chocolate’s maturing jargon, some manufacturers are placing geographical information or contentng. Chocolove has been detailing its products’ characteristics since 1995 and includes bean origin and vintage on the packaging of its single origin Chocolatour line. “We hope that our labeling helps people learn about a specific place to find chocolate they like so they can go out and get more of it—like a bottle of wine, notes Moley, whose limited-production 2004 bars include a 70 percent Sao Tomé, 60 percent Grenada and a 33 percent Java.

Other suppliers are instructing shoppers on how to eat chocolate to take full advantage of its distinct nuances. On the packaging of its new Exotic Candy Bars, Chicago-based Vosges Haut-Chocolat notes that customers should first notice the chocolate’s shine, then rub their thumb on the chocolate to help release the aromas; followed by breaking the bar to make sure there is a crisp snap. Tasting is done by pressing the chocolate on the tongue and then to the roof of the mouth. Taste profiles begin when the chocolate starts to melt.

The Demand for Dark and Sugar-Free
Dark chocolate is growing into a dietary hero with its sales soaring 17 percent in 2004, according to the Chocolate Manufacturers Association, and its health benefits continually touted. A study published by the American Heart Association that looked specifically at dark chocolate’s effects on lowering blood pressure, reports that flavonoids (natural antioxidants found in chocolate) can lower blood pressure and improve insulin resistance. Dark chocolate has also been linked to elevating mood, reducing stress, preventing the oxidation of LDL cholesterol and inhibiting blood platelet clumping.

To reach the health-conscious consumer, suppliers are fortifying darks with even more benefits. San Anselmo, Calif.’s NewTree America’s 73 percent Forgiveness bar boasts natural lemon flavor and cactus extract, which is high in fiber and believed to aid in digestion. Fiber and protein can also be sourced from Rainforest Alliance-certified Plantations Arriba Collection from Elizabeth, N.J.-based Vintage Chocolate, a selection emphasizing the origin of the cocoa bean grown solely in Ecuador under sustainable farming practices. The company offers its new 75 percent bar with quinoa, an indigenous Andean grain high in protein.

“Ten years ago most dark chocolate on the market was domestically produced and no one paid that much attention to it, notes Chocolove’s Moley, whose best-selling bar is the 70 Percent Strong Dark. “Today, there is more art in dark chocolate—there is nothing to dilute or hide the flavor.

Retailers have noticed the push for dark. Alison Nelson, owner of Manhattan’s Chocolate Bar says the 72 percent cacao solid chocolate bar is by far her best seller, followed by dark chocolate truffles and the company’s 84 and 99 percent cacao Signature Bars.

Meanwhile, at Scottsdale, Ariz.’s Aspire Market, Owner Debbie Shapos added 50 percent to the size of her now six-foot chocolate case to keep up with the demand for higher-quality dark as well as sugar-free chocolate—a segment that has seen a dramatic rise in interest due to health and obesity concerns.

“Sugar-free is our biggest growth area in Europe and is getting a positive response in America, notes Robert Walsky, president of Valor USA, Miami. Valor Chocolate’s top U.S. sellers are its high cocoa content bars with Marcona Almonds, Valencia Orange and Fresh Mint, while sugar-free 70 percent dark bars are quickly gaining popularity.

Another international supplier, Robilante, Italy’s Venchi Spa, best known for its nougatine, a candy made of ground caramelized hazelnuts covered in chocolate, has also reported a leap in U.S. sales of its dark sugar-free varieties.

Tangy and Cheesy
Exotic flavor and texture trends are popping up in truffles, caramels and toffee. “People are craving something different, says Heather Foley, owner of Azure Chocolat, Centerport, N.Y., whose best-selling handmade truffle is made with Guinness Stout.

While chocolate may complement beer’s malt and bitterness, herbs, green tea and tangy citrus fruit infusions are also top pairings. Foley’s Green Tea White Truffles with hints of mint, honey and sake are crowd-pleasers, while in New York City, Kee Ling Tong, owner of Kee’s Chocolates, offers truffles in fresh lemon basil flavor and infused with yuzu, a Japanese citrus fruit with a lemon-lime flavor.

“People like the tart, tangy flavors of citrus and the pop they get in their mouth, notes Sherri Hutchinson, owner of Covington, Ga.’s Graffiti Zoo. The company’s award-winning Margarita Manatee chocolate—white chocolate with a sprinkle of lime—is the top seller in a line of 19 flavors.

Even cheese is finding a home in rich cacao, pleasing consumers with a sweet and savory combination. “Goat cheese truffles have become some of my customers’ favorite purchases, notes Cheryl Robbins-Dooley, owner of Blackflower Chocolates, Shelburne, Vt., which offers fresh truffles with local goat, Camembert and mascarpone cheese.

Infused toffee is also gaining popularity, while smooth, chewy caramels take a salty turn. Chicago’s Terry’s Toffee offers crunchy blends of spices including cinnamon, clove, ginger, cardamom and pepper. Smoked sea salt complements milk chocolate and soft buttery caramel in Seattle’s Fran's Chocolate’s award-winning Smoked Salt Caramels.

Nibs and Beans
Munching nibs—the meat of the cacao bean, hulled, cracked and toasted—is as in vogue as sipping designer water. And the crunchy treats are being paired with some unexpected ingredients that give new meaning to the term bittersweet. For instance, in its new single origin Exotic Candy Bar line, Vosges marries espresso, chicory root and nibs for its 70 percent Creole Bar, while sherry vinegar and Spanish paprika can be found in Blackflower’s chocolates. Scharffen Berger Chocolate Maker, Berkeley, Calif., offers a fresh confection line featuring Nibs Nougatine, a signature truffle that combines crunchy caramelized cacao nibs with chocolate ganache, enrobed in dark chocolate.

The cacao bean itself is a growing treat. Austin, Tex.-based Cocoa Puro offers Kakawa, a whole-roasted, chocolate-covered cocoa bean dusted with cocoa powder. Unlike a nib, Kakawa is the whole bean and packs a bold crunch with maximum chocolate flavor and texture. “It is the taste of real chocolate, says Owner Tom Pedersen, who first introduced his beans at a downtown Austin farmers market one year ago. Pedersen knew he had something good when he sold out of the first 15 pounds in less than an hour. The beans can also be used to garnish cakes.

A World of Chocolate
Increasing importation has made it possible to find elusive varieties without leaving the country. Antica Dolceria Bonajuto made in Modica, Sicily, has been creating chocolate since 1880 with the same ingredients and methodology that was passed on from the ancient Aztecs. Because the company does not soften its sugar, each bar is loaded with visible, crunchy sugar crystals. Bars spiked with cinnamon or vanilla have an old-world-style and are gaining local appeal.

Russian and Japanese confections are also getting noticed. Russian chocolate maker A. Korkunov Chocolatier, Inc.’s ethnic-appealing Russian Masterpiece line is made exclusively for the U.S. market. Its 3.5-ounce bars come in six flavors including best sellers Dark and Dark with Whole Almonds. And with Asian tradition and culture popular in North America, Dallas-based Hidemi Inc., a subsidiary of Japanese confectioner Fujiya Seika Honpo, Co., Ltd., offers aesthetically pleasing petite chocolates in flavors such as Cantaloupe, Lemon and Strawberry.

The Learning Curve
Retailers can help customers understand more about chocolate’s evolution by offering samplings, tasting note cards and cross merchandising or grouping products from similar countries of origin. “The future of specialty chocolate is bright, says Chocolate Haven’s Torres. “There are many unexplored avenues to be presented and consumers are hungry for their senses to be stimulated.

Nicole Potenza Denis is senior editor of Specialty Food Magazine.