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Outstanding Retailers of 2004

Specialty foods and the stores that sell them have become big business, representing more than $22.8 billion in sales in 2003, according to NASFT research.

While innovative products fuel the growth of the industry, it is the retailers who champion these products and bring them to consumers who are the unsung heroes. Talking with customers each and every day, these men and women make specialty foods approachable and fun.

Tens of thousands of stores across the U.S. sell specialty foods. Among this diverse and enthusiastic playing field, the following seven retailers are recognized as leaders. Despite diverse formats and different clientele, they all offer a wealth of top-notch products, plus the highest level of customer service.

To identify “Outstanding Retailer” candidates, the NASFT asked its supplier members to name retailers who they admired. Approximately 325 markets were nominated. The 15 with the most nominations were asked to submit entries, which included photographs, store facts, articles, menus, newsletters, press kits, training manuals and letters from customers. This information was evaluated by a panel of former Outstanding Retailer winners, manufacturers, distributors and journalists, who confronted the challenge of choosing the Outstanding Retailers of 2004.

Scroll down to read on about each of the seven Outstanding Retailers.

Eddie's of Roland Park
Baltimore's Neighborhood Specialty Grocer

Eddie’s of Roland Park has been providing exceptional service to Baltimore since 1953. The original Roland Avenue store now boasts a 16,850-square-foot sister store just two miles away. Opened in 1992 by Owner Nancy Cohen, the larger Eddie’s houses a successful catering business but retains the personalized service customers have come to expect from their neighborhood grocer.

Eddie’s is a full-service grocery store featuring all the essentials with an impressive collection of specialty products mixed into each category. For instance, shoppers find Stonewall Kitchen’s line of natural cleaning products beside the Dawn dishwashing liquid. General Manager Steve Kuehn describes Eddie’s clientele as a sophisticated eclectic mix. “Some shoppers come in for the basics and occasionally treat themselves, but others like to treat themselves everyday with gourmet purchases,” he says.

Cohen goes to great lengths to offer her customers a range of specialty items. Certain categories have special appeal to her. “Olive oil is my thing,” she says. “It’s a big deal to me that we offer great olive oils and balsamic vinegars. And we have to carry fine specialty sea salts. If we only sell three or four a month, that’s okay.”

A passionate staff offers personal attention and knowledgeable advice. “I want employees who understand and love people. Because really, we’re not just in the food business—we’re in the people business,” she says. “I encourage my staff to pursue their interests. I like to groom managers and assistant managers into becoming buyers by taking them to Fancy Food Shows and exciting educational events.”

The enthusiasm is contagious. In the 250-item cheese department, shoppers consult with Manager Julie Parker, an industry expert and past speaker at the American Cheese Society, when making a selection. “Our case reflects the surge in popularity of handmade American artisanal cheeses,” she points out.

Active sampling and customer education happen throughout Eddie’s. A different menu special is sampled daily at the prepared foods counter, says Chef Avi Cohen, to introduce customers to seasonal flavors and to encourage them to try new ingredients.

The Charles Street store features a full-service butcher shop. Meat and Seafood Manager Steve Miller says, “No one has a full-service meat department anymore. We have 14 employees ready to wait on shoppers and cater to their individual needs.” With no grab-and-go case, each selection is wrapped to order. “We offer whole beef tenderloins and crown roasts, and we’ll make sausage to order according to a customer’s own recipe,” says Miller.

Eddie’s in-store bakery prepares 15 varieties of cookies and decadent desserts. “Many of our customers don’t want a whole cake so we make individually sized desserts like fruit tarts and mini cheesecakes,” explains Bakery Manager Marge Butta.

A strong supporter of the community, Cohen purchases from Baltimore vendors whenever possible. Local artisans deliver freshly baked loaves of Italian bread and assorted bagels daily. Baltimore Coffee and Tea supplies beans and freshly ground coffee, and containers of locally produced Moxley ice cream fill the freezer case.

With her thoughtfully chosen product mix and a warm, friendly staff, Cohen continues to strengthen Eddie’s reputation as Baltimore’s neighborhood specialty grocery store. Contact: Nancy Cohen, Eddie’s of Roland Park, 6213 North Charles St., Baltimore, MD 21212; 410.377.8040; Fax: 410.377.9144.—J.M.

West Point Market
A Specialty Food Legend

The legendary West Point Market began its evolution into a premier specialty food store in 1960 when Russ Vernon joined his father’s business. A true visionary and industry pioneer, Vernon was committed to transforming the grocery by introducing imported cheeses, fine wines, and a diverse range of specialty food products to the people of Akron, Ohio.

Since then, West Point Market has become a nationally recognized retailer offering an enormous selection of gourmet products, outstanding prepared foods, and impeccable customer service. “Customer service is the basis for our success,” says current CEO Rick Vernon. Vernon credits the well-trained, dedicated staff with creating a pleasant and comfortable atmosphere for shoppers.

Vernon has implemented a formal employee training program. Based on the Zingerman’s model, new employees are now trained at West Point Academy. “We instituted the formal classroom program a couple of years ago, and since then I’ve noticed a difference,” Vernon remarks. “Our employees are more confident and comfortable, there is much more employee-customer interaction, and employees do a lot of suggestive selling.”

West Point’s low employee turnover ensures that shoppers will see the same familiar faces on each trip to the market and have the opportunity to establish relationships with the staff. Employees are encouraged to interact with customers and create a fun, relaxed atmosphere while providing suggestions and answering questions. The main goal is to make sure every guest leaves West Point Market completely satisfied. “Our policy is that a customer can taste any product in any department. There’s no risk in purchasing a $30 bottle of olive oil because we guarantee every sale,” says Vernon.

Educated personnel abound throughout the 33,000-square-foot store. In the wine department, which accounts for 20 percent of sales, three full-time wine stewards help customers select from nearly 4,000 labels. West Point presents monthly wine tastings and weekly events.

Founded as a meat store, it’s fitting that the present-day meat department is a completely full-service operation featuring prime beef. Expert butchers cut steaks to order, make sausages by hand, and prepare a range of oven-ready selections.

Whatever customers are looking for, West Point has it. Says Vernon, “I consider us an ingredient store. If a customer wants to try a complicated recipe she found in Martha Stewart Living, she only has to make one stop. We’ve got everything.”

With spectacular service and upscale inventory, West Point Market has established itself as a leading destination for northern Ohio shoppers. Recent expansions have helped generate more reasons to visit. The store’s 75-seat café serving custom made-to-order salads, fresh soups, and sandwiches draws crowds—especially on the weekends when a live jazz band provides entertainment. Another distinctive attraction, Mrs. Ticklemore’s Tearoom features traditional English tea service daily. This 40-seat tea room has become a popular spot for community group meetings, bridal showers, and children’s tea parties. Guests can nibble on tea sandwiches and mini scones while they sip tea (provided exclusively by Taylors of Harrogate) or sample hand-crafted treats such as the Simply Mint Hot Chocolate made with crème de menthe and Valrhona chocolate.

The business continues to grow rapidly. Future renovations include plans to purchase an adjacent office building to add 5,000 square feet to the sales floor and a 5,000-square-foot basement for extra storage and prep space. Contact: Rick Vernon, West Point Market, 1711 West Market St., Akron, Ohio 44313; 330.864.2151; Fax: 330.869.8666; www.westpointmarket.com.—J.M.

A Southern Season:
Education, Excitement and Entertainment

Specialty foods were hard to come by in the South in the 1970s, when Michael Barefoot took his love of good food and set in motion the beginning of a landmark retail store that is committed to excellence on all levels—from the finest products to dynamic promotions to dedicated customer service.

Searching for a career path, Barefoot found himself at a small coffee roastery in Winston-Salem, N.C. "By the end of the first day, I knew it was for me," Barefoot notes. In 1975, he opened A Southern Season, an 800-square-foot shop in Chapel Hill that introduced freshly roasted coffee and select specialty products to the community. At the time, Chapel Hill was a sleepy university town whose residents were academic, but not particularly affluent.

Fast forward to 2004: Chapel Hill has progressed into a business epicenter that forms one point in the Raleigh/Durham Research Triangle. The growth has brought a well-traveled customer base and helped A Southern Season develop with its surroundings. In September 2003, the store relocated to upscale University Mall and opened a flagship 59,000-square-foot emporium. Boasting more than 75,000 SKUs in eight departments, it is now one of the largest specialty-only retailers in the U.S. (Additional operations include a mail order and e-commerce business, Carolina Cupboard, a wholesale division, and two boutiques at the Raleigh-Durham airport, run by The Paradies Shops.)

“What perfect timing for the Outstanding Retailer Award,” says Barefoot. “My team worked unbelievably hard over the past year to make our move to the larger space happen. For me, this award is a tribute to their love for our industry.”

That passion spills over into every aspect of A Southern Season, whose motto is “Education, Excitement and Entertainment.” There is always something happening to generate enthusiasm. The retailer runs daily in-store events—from passive sampling to vendor demos to storewide promotions—at its nine demo stations that encircle the sales floor.

Of course, a premium product selection is crucial. Coffee is still a cornerstone, as is an extensive candy selection. Specialty goods from North Carolina are emphasized am-ong delicacies from around the world in a specially designed showcase. The new space has afforded a 3,000-square-foot wine section; a 50-seat, state-of-the-art culinary school; and an expanded House and Home department, which serves as the centerpiece for the store. The popular Weathervane restaurant has also been enlarged.

Integral to every event, department and day at the store is a signature brand of affable customer service that makes A Southern Season more of a community fixture than a place to shop. “Our success has always been driven by responsiveness to our clientele. They’re loyal—and encouraged to be vocal,” says Barefoot.

“A Southern Season is truly owned by our customers, not by me. One of the greatest things about being honored as an outstanding retailer has been customer reaction—they feel as though it is their award, too.” Contact: Michael Barefoot, A Southern Season, University Mall, 201 S. Estes Dr., Chapel Hill, N.C. 27514; 919.929.7133; Fax: 919.942.9274; www.southernseason.com. —D.P.

The Market at Pinnacle Point:
Where Wal-Mart Execs Shop

While Wal-Mart is renown for its basic assortment at everyday low prices, it isn’t often credited with spawning a specialty food revolution. Yet, that is what it has done in northwest Arkansas. Home of the mass merchant’s corporate headquarters, the Rogers/Bentonville area has seen a huge population boom over recent years, as national vendors servicing Wal-Mart set up regional offices. With an influx of new residents migrating from all over the U.S.—and driving development of affluent suburbs, luxurious homes and manicured office parks—the time seemed right for a specialty food market that could offer them a taste of home.

Enter Richard Donckers and team. Donckers, once a Wal-Mart executive himself who, ironically, created the Food Division for the company in the early 1990s, helped spearhead development of a 16,000-square-foot hybrid gourmet store and restaurant/catering establishment in Pinnacle Point, an 86-acre retail and commercial office site.—D.P.

The Pasta Shop:
An Ongoing Conversation with Customers

The San Francisco Bay area is a foodie’s paradise. There is no shortage of shops selling artisan cheese, high-end olive oils, farm-fresh produce, gourmet groceries and, of course, wine country vintages. So how does a merchant excel in this environment to be honored as an Outstanding Retailer?

For The Pasta Shop, it starts with curiosity and passion for great food that is nurtured through new discoveries and then cultivated in each person associated with the store—on both sides of the counter.

Known as the store for people who enjoy food, Pasta Shop’s discerning customers use the retailer as a source of knowledge. Managing Partner Sara Wilson and her staff seek out superior artisan products and international cuisines to bring to the mix at its two locations in Berkeley and Oakland’s Rockridge Market Hall. The stores offer an array of grocery items, hand-crafted cheeses, fresh pasta, catering and a wide-ranging prepared foods counter, particularly at the Oakland store, which receives heavy commuter traffic.

“Our business is dependent on conversation with our customers—both verbally and through events and promotions,” says Wilson. In addition to fostering relationships with its loyal repeat customer base, Pasta Shop holds year-round events, promotions and activities as educational tools to keep shoppers intrigued. A major cross-departmental promotion highlighting a region or country is held every other month, with smaller promotions scheduled in between. Sampling and demoing are everyday occurrences and bring the challenge of showing the consumer practical applications for the products.

Promotions require substantial ongoing and special-event-related staff education, to ensure they are knowledgeable about the products or cuisine involved and will be excited enough about it to pass that enthusiasm along to shoppers.

“You can talk about things like cross-merchandising and staff training or use industry catch-phrases such as ‘we strive to be the best,’ but day-to-day you need to do what you say you’re doing—and have a sense of humor,” Wilson says. “You have to be in this business because you like your customers. We don’t exist without them.” Contact: Sara Wilson, The Pasta Shop, 5655 College Ave., Oakland, CA 94618; 510.652.4680; Fax: 510.601.8251; www.rockridgemarkethall.com. —D.P.

Zingerman's:
The Coolest Small Company in America

Zingerman’s Delicatessen in Ann Arbor, Mich. was founded by two friends, Ari Weinzweig and Paul Saginaw, in 1982. Twenty-two years later, it is one of the best-known delis in the U.S. and the heart of the multi-faceted Zingerman’s Community of Business (ZCoB). Named “the coolest small company in America” by Inc. magazine in 2003, ZCoB comprises six other operations including a bakery, a creamery, and a restaurant. Each business is run according to a shared set of principles and a commitment to offering consumers traditionally made, full-flavored food and the greatest service imaginable.

Each product offered has met a strict set of criteria. Weinzweig and his partners are always on the look-out for new foods. “To me, it’s like detective work,” he says. Voracious reading, traveling, and scouring markets and other specialty stores are sources of inspiration. Full flavor is the first consideration when sampling prospective products, and the history and tradition of the product also come into play.

When the Zingerman’s partners aren’t satisfied with what’s available on the market, they take matters into their own hands—literally. Zingerman’s Creamery, founded two years ago, produces hand-crafted fresh cheeses, including award-winning cream cheese, made by hand with no preservatives, gums, or stabilizers. ZCoB also operates Zingerman’s Bakehouse, which produces hand-shaped bagels, artisan breads, coffee cakes, cookies, and pastries.

Customers are treated to exceptional service on every visit. The Zingerman’s philosophy is “to create a culture in which everyone is involved in making a great experience for customers,” explains Weinzweig. To this end, all staff members are authorized to do whatever they think they need to do to make a customer happy.

The willingness to go above and beyond reflects the company’s philosophy of service. “The mutually rewarding, long-term relationships with our guests are more important than any short-term transaction,” he adds.

Zingerman’s also strives to be an educational resource. Employees routinely offer customers samples of unfamiliar products, and informative signs and bi-monthly newsletters demystify items. Contact: Kim Kunoff, Zingerman’s, 422 Detroit St., Ann Arbor, MI 48104; 734.668.2779; Fax: 734.668.6025; www.zingermans.com. —J.M.

The Smoke House:
More Than a Meat Market

Originally called the Chesterfield Mercantile Company, the Smoke House Market has been around since 1937. Located 25 miles west of St. Louis in the rural suburb of Chesterfield, Mo., this family-owned operation attracts customers eager to sample its famous smoked meats, fresh local produce, artisan cheeses, and imported gourmet products.

Annie Gunn’s, an Irish pub and critically acclaimed restaurant, is connected to the market. Both establishments were virtually destroyed by floods in the summer of 1993. Determined to re-create both businesses, Co-owners Thom and Jane Sehnert spent seven months and $3 million rebuilding the Midwestern landmark.

Since reopening, business has been booming. Patrons flock to cozy Annie Gunn’s to feast on hearty gourmet fare and they stop by the market to pick up staples like Vermont cheddar and country cured bacon. Smoked specialties lure consumers from throughout the Midwest. “We wanted to be true to our roots and provide extra value by continuing to smoke meat and seafood the traditional way,” explains Thom Sehnert. “We use the finest, leanest cuts of meat and smoke them with green hickory wood which adds tremendous flavor.”

Prepared on-site in an authentic smokehouse, favorite offerings include Ozark-raised smoked trout, homemade sausages, smoked pork chops, and the famous maple-cured smoked jumbo shrimp. The market also features prime aged beef at its full-service butcher counter. Steaks, roasts, and chops are cut and trimmed to order by six full-time master butchers.

The Smoke House is much more than a meat market, however. A selection of seasonal produce allows shoppers to get everything they need to prepare a meal. “It’s important to support local farmers. Between the restaurant and the market, we account for 60 to 80 percent of sales for some area farmers, and have growers who plant special heirloom crops just for us. We guarantee the purchase of their harvests,” Sehnert explains.

Cheese is another draw; the market carries more than 350 varieties from around the world. The Sehnerts have 50-plus years of combined experience in selecting and importing artisan and farmstead cheeses. “Our customers have been enjoying European selections for years, and we’ve started to introduce them to the range of American artisan cheeses. The response has been overwhelming,” Sehnert notes. Two cheese specialists are also on hand for consultation. The in-store experts also offer pairing suggestions from among the more than 750 wines in stock.

Packed into the 1,400 square feet of selling space are upscale items chosen by Jane Sehnert, including handmade jams, olive oils, and more than 30 sea salts. The Smoke House also offers its own gourmet honey. Harvested by the staff beekeeper, the honey is processed at the family’s farm. Chef Lou Rook uses the honey in recipes at Annie Gunn’s, and the market packages it for retail sale.

Prepared food specialties include mashed sweet potatoes, macaroni and cheese, and the popular egg salad made with free-range eggs from a local farm. “We buy 100 dozen eggs a week for the deli alone,” notes Sehnert. “We use them in salads and for deviled eggs, and our customers rave about the flavor. We also sell the same eggs retail, and even though they’re more expensive, they outsell the other brands by five to one.”

The Sehnerts are committed to offering the highest-quality products—from around the world or down the road—to their enthusiastic clientele. Contact: Thom Sehnert, The Smoke House Market, 16806 Chesterfield Airport Rd., Chesterfield, MO 63005; 636.532.3314 Fax: 636.532.0561.—J.M.

Denise Purcell and Jennifer Maslow are, respectively, managing editor and associate editor of Specialty Food Magazine.