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Specialty Deli Meats, European Style

I started working in my father’s deli when I was 15. The view from behind the counter was always skewed by the masses of Italian dried sausages that hung from the ceiling encased in their fashionable molds. The work left me smelling like Parmigiano-Reggiano, a sweet, but unforgettable scent that seemed to linger for days—a smell I will always associate with my dad.

There was one deli item I was never allowed to touch. My father would always say, “Wait. I’ll cut the prosciutto. It needs to be done just right.

Europeans in the Deli Case
Prosciutto is just one of the specialty meats that make up a tempting deli case. Unlike bologna or boiled ham, imported meats like Prosciutto di Parma, Jamon Serrano, European dried sausages, pancetta, pastrami, and European-style salame are highly respected in the deli industry. Unfor-tunately, many of these meats don’t receive the attention and excitement they deserve.

“Consumers need to get over the ingredients and the appearance of certain meats and learn to appreciate the taste and the history, says Andy Hanna, retail manager, Zingerman’s Delicatessen, Ann Arbor, Mich. “The goal for the retailer is not to trim the fat off Prosciutto di Parma, but to teach the customer to enjoy and savor the flavor it gives.

Alleviating the intimidation factor that some specialty deli meats carry is the main challenge for deli retailers. Behind-the- counter education, plus celebrity chefs, sell product.

“Once it was mainly Italian customers who appreciated specialty meats such as Prosciutto di Parma or pancetta says Arthur Potenza, deli manager, A&J; Met Foods Supermarket, New Rochelle, N.Y. “That is rapidly changing. We have the Food Network to thank for that. Although Potenza’s deli repertoire ranges from pancetta and salami to bresaola and pastrami, the paper-thin slices of prosciutto are requested the most.

Wild Boar Is Dejour
Prosciutto, the Italian word for ham, is a term broadly used when describing meats that have been seasoned, salt-cured and air-dried. Today, it can mean much more than pork. For instance, Newark, N.J.-based D’Artagnan has been selling Moulard Duck prosciutto for many years and recently introduced Wild Boar prosciutto.

“Dry cured meats are becoming popular again, says George Faison, co-owner, D’Artagnan. He compares the full-flavored lean Wild Boar prosciutto to Jamon Serrano and touts its compatibility with such fruits as mango and Bosc pears. At $40 a pound, a few ounces go a long way.

At Salumi restaurant in Seattle, Lamb prosciutto is one of the 15 artisan-made cured meats prepared by Owner Armandino Batali. Often seen on the menu paired with pickled asparagus or artichokes, the Lamb prosciutto has been a consistent seller since the restaurant opened five years ago.

Viva la Pig
Despite the broad term, true Italian prosciutto has been made in Italy for thousands of years. Prosciutto di Parma, also known as Parma Ham, from the Emilia-Romagna region, is branded with a five-point ducal crown, a guarantee that it is certified by the European Community. This certification, or Protected Designation of Origin (PDO), protects the names of high-quality foods made according to traditional methods in a defined geographic region. Authentic Prosciutto di Parma must be produced in a strictly defined area within the province of Parma. “There are a lot of imitators, says Ruth Lowenberg, spokesperson for the Consorzio del Prosciutto di Parma, Lewis & Neale Agency, New York City. “Retailers should show the seal if they are asked by a customer—it sets a definite standard of quality.

Today, the Consorzio del Prosciutto di Parma has approximately 200 members; about 40 export to the U.S. Prosciutto di San Daniele, made in the region of Friuli, also bears a branded mark from the San Daniele Consorzio and has about 27 authorized producers.

Domestic and Canadian prosciutti do exist and retailers need to educate customers on the differences. The Consorzio—through its part in the 3 European Originals program, which promotes authentic products—and Principe, a major producer of Prosciutto di San Daniele, have proactive education and training programs with deli managers and staff to help alleviate any miscommunication about the differences between domestic and imported prosciutto. “Often retailers are misled; that is passed down to the consumer, says Suzanne Keck, marketing manager, Principe, USA.

Mimmo Magliulo, owner of New York City’s Buon Italia, agrees, “A lot of customers think all prosciutto is from Italy. He uses clear signage to explain where the prosciutto is from and offers samples.

Met Foods’ Potenza will suggest a less expensive non-import if it is being used secondary in a recipe. “There are good non-imported prosciutti available that try to compete in taste but not in price with the traditional, says Potenza. He sells non-imported brands such as Long Island City, N.Y.-based Citterio U.S.A.’s Prosciutto Silver because of the current high price of Parma Ham.

Customer Service Representative Debbie Parisi from Citterio concurs. “Because of the fluctuating market, and the limited availability of imported hams, domestic prosciutto will usually outsell imported, she states. The strong Euro has kept imported prosciutto at $6 to $10 per pound above most Canadian- or American-produced prosciutto.

Intense, Rustic Spanish Jamon
Serrano made its North American debut about three years ago. While Parma Ham’s delicate and salty-sweet flavor is complementary to fruits such as melon, mangos or figs, Serrano Ham’s intense, rustic flavor and appearance holds its own alone or shares the spotlight with crusty bread, a glass of sherry or some toasted almonds.

“People are more familiar with prosciutto and they often think Jamon Serrano is the Spanish version; that is definitely not the case, says Paloma Hsieh, marketing manager, Long Island City, N.Y.-based Redondo Iglesias USA, Inc. Redondo Iglesias is one of only two factories that export Serrano ham to the U.S. Hsieh suggests deli retailers offer side-by-side taste comparisons between Italian prosciutto and Serrano. People who prefer the Spanish ham often don’t care for prosciutto’s saltiness, enjoying a robust meatier flavor.

Often touted as less salty, French ham or jambon from Limoges, France-based Madrange is currently not being exported to the U.S. However, the USDA’s ban on the importation of French meat products has not stopped the company from producing high-quality hams. According to Ron Schinbeckler, president of Fromartharie, Inc., a Millington, N.J.-based agent for Madrange, the hams are now being produced in Quebec. The result: A fresher product that reaches the consumer quicker. “With the recent bioterrorism requirements and the strong Euro, it made sense to move production to Canada, says Schinbeckler. The company currently produces Buffet ham and Madrange slices, with 60 percent less salt than American-made hams. It recently began production in Canada of its Ruban Bleu, the French original, sold traditionally with the skin on to add more flavor. Madrange Ruban Bleu coupled with Comté cheese, cornichons and a French baguette is a traditional Parisian sandwich.

For customers looking for a smoky meat, Northern German-style West-phalian ham made by Queens, N.Y.-based Schaller & Weber is naturally cured and smoked over hardwood fires. It possesses a distinct, mild smoky flavor and is best thinly sliced with kiwi or avocado or paired with pumpernickel bread with cream cheese and horseradish.

Abraham North America, Inc., imports Westphalian ham from Germany; it is the number-one seller. The knuckle of the hind leg of pork is deboned and cold-smoked over be-ech wood chips and cured for up to six months. Imported Speck ham is also gaining popularity, especially on the East Coast. Made in Germany with a classic recipe from the Tyrol Valley in Austria, this aged ham is cold-smoked and air-cured.

How You Slice It
How you slice and present specialty meats is a deli art. Proper merchandising and ease of purchase will also boost sales.

“Our hard/dried sausage sales have gone through the roof since we started slicing, cryovacing and merchandising them in the pâté case, says Sara Freedman-Izquierdo, retail manager, Epicure Market. The Miami Beach, Fla.-based retailer says sausages have become popular grab-and-go items; because they are cryovaced, customers do not feel compelled to eat them right away.

Epicure’s European-style variety of dried sausages includes 35 varieties, including, when available, imports from France and many Canadian- and U.S.-made options. Dried pork sausages from Ontario’s Pillers sell well due to their distinct shapes; some have scalloped edges or are square instead of traditionally round. They also have different colored casings to draw attention. “They are both pretty and delicious, notes Freedman-Izquierdo.

“Many retailers don’t think about specialty meats as being easy to handle, observes Hsieh. Although Jamon Serrano is traditionally sliced on the bone, Redondo Iglesias U.S.A. is introducing its new Serrano Deli Loaf, a 12-month aged Serrano Ham, boned and pressed for ease of use on a commercial slicer. Since it is sized for slicing, the yield will be higher.

Chic Salami
Who buys bresaola, lardo, chorizo and salami? With charcuterie, tapas and wine bars such as Avec in Chicago, Bar Jamon in New York City and A.O.C. in Los Angeles becoming chic—where you can get sliced salami to order served with bread and butter at the salami-and-cheese counter—customers are getting more excited about specialty meats and their traditional accompaniments.

“Tapas bars in the Bay Area have definitely helped chorizo sales and increased the variety I carry, says Elena Voiron, owner, Ratto’s International Market & Deli, Oakland, Calif. Voiron cross-merchandises Spanish Manchego cheese and Rioja wine with chorizo.

Belleville, N.J.-based Olé Olé Foods, importer of Spanish products, notices a trend toward chorizos’ popularity. “We have added ten new chorizo items to our line from a year ago, and now carry 20 varieties, says Vice President Caroline Healey. The Olé Olé line includes wine-infused chorizo, Vic Catalan, a pepperoni-style and Palacios Traditional, the company’s best-selling import from Spain.

Recipes, serving suggestions and freebees can boost specialty meat sales. Why not throw in a few slices of lardo or bresaola? Bresaola, the ruby-red colored air-cured beef can be an aside to a bitter green salad, while lardo can be melted down to make citrus salad dressing or be enjoyed melted on a thick piece of crusty bread. Sausages are always a natural when shoppers are purchasing cheese.

“Italian-style copa is a natural accompaniment to Prosciutto di Parma. And when customers are purchasing hard cheese, they may pick up dried sopressata too, says Victor Grasso, store manager of Agata & Valentina, New York City.

What’s trendy sells. Fennel, sweeter and milder than anise, found in Italian-style finocchiona, dried cured pork salami with whole fennel seeds, is making its way into stores and restaurants. Salumi’s Batali touts the popularity of his own Tuscan-style finocchiona and the new Molé summer salami, spicy cured pork with Mexican spices such as ancho chiles with hints of chocolate.

And for those customers who want their cheese already in their meats, the Freybe Company of Langley, B.C., offers herb and cheese varieties of salami. Its Parmesano salami made of ground beef and pork is hand-rolled and dipped in imported cheese.

Although the specialty deli meat category is vast, these meat varieties and more are definitely peeking consumer interest.

Nicole Potenza Denis is senior editor of Specialty Food Magazine.