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The Aggressive Wines of the Southern Rhône

While Bordeaux is France’s most prestigious wine region and the leading producer of AOC wines (Appellation d’Origine Côntrolée, the government’s limited guarantee of quality), it doesn’t have the same down-home appeal as the Rhône, France’s second largest AOC region. Rhône wines, write Mary Ewing-Mulligan and Ed McCarthy in French Wine for Dummies, “offer an animalistic sort of pleasure and “put us in touch with our primitive selves the way no Bordeaux wine can.

“There is always an aggressive spiciness and sanguine character to the wines, says Joe Spellman of Paterno Wines International, which imports the outstanding Rhône wines of M. Chapoutier. “Rhône wines don’t have the class factor Bordeaux wines have.

Intense Ripeness and High Alcohol
The 125-mile Rhône Valley wine region, which follows the Rhône River from Vienne to just below Avignon, is actually two distinct regions, the North and South. The South, which is the focus of this column, is much larger and produces about 90 percent of the wine in the entire Rhône. It also includes Wine Spectator’s 2002 Wine of the Year, the 1999 Guigal Chateauneuf-du-Pape. Tapping the Guigal wine was symbolic, according to Thomas Cozanet of Brotte SA, a leading exporter of southern Rhône wines. “It is a recognition of the progress we have made in the past five to 10 years, Cozanet says.

The southern Rhône begins around Montelimar. As it continues south, the terrain changes from steep hillsides to land that is flatter and more wide open. Soil gives way to smooth stones (especially in Chateauneuf-du-Pape) that provide good drainage and retain higher heat, which can give wines intense ripeness and high alcohol levels. The stones also protect vines from the howling Mistral winds, helping keep the region dry and the grapes disease-resistant. The South also differs from the North in the grapes used. While Syrah is the primary grape in the North, it is one of some 20 employed in the South. (Red wines far outnumber whites in the southern Rhône.)

Spellman characterizes the wines of the South as having red fruit flavors of raspberries and strawberries with notes of black and white pepper versus the black fruits and smoked meat qualities of the northern Rhône. This is best exemplified in Grenache, the South’s most common red grape, which makes delicious wines when yields are kept low. Other common red varietals include the richly colored, fruity Mourvedre, and the aromatic Cinsault.

Because so many varietals are grown in the South, most of the wines are blends and can vary depending on the percentage of grapes used. Taste also is influenced by how the wines are aged, from the use of traditional large oak vats to the increasing utilization of small oak barriques, especially for Syrah and Mourvedre.

The Ultimate in Blended Wine
The ultimate blended wine is Chateauneuf-du-Pape, which can use up to 13 varieties, including some whites. Chateau de Beaucastel is one of the few wineries that use all 13 varieties: Most use less than half. The esteemed Chateau Rayas uses only Grenache.

Traditionally made Chateau-neuf-du-Pape is tannic, full-bodied and designed to age a few decades or more. But lighter, less pricey styles are being made for earlier drinking. Though under 10 percent of the wines in Chateauneuf-du Pape are white—from six varietals such as Grenache Blanc, Viognier and Roussanne—that number is gradually increasing. Other top Chateauneuf-du-Pape producers include: Louis Bernard, Jean-Luc Colombo, Paul Coulon & Fils, Chateau Fortia, Lancon Pere & Fils, Chateau Mont-Redon, Chateau La Nerthe, Caves des Papes, and Domaine du Vieux-Telegraphe.

Comforting Wines for Chilly Nights
The huge Côtes du Rhône appellation provides some of the world’s best wine values, with many retailing for less than $12. These are comforting wines to enjoy on a chilly night with a hearty stew. Côtes du Rhône wines must contain at least 40 percent Grenache.

Côtes du Rhône-Villages is a step up from Côtes du Rhône. Production is considerably smaller, yields are lower and there are fewer allowable grape varieties. Grenache can provide up to 65 percent of a blend with Syrah and Mourvedre providing most of the rest.

Sixteen of the 95 communes or villages encompassed by Côtes du Rhône-Villages can be identified on the label. These village-named wines are usually of the highest quality in the appellation. For example, in Wine Spectator’s recent round-up of Rhône wines, the 2000 Feraud-Brunel Côtes du Rhône-Villages Cairanne (Cairanne being the village) was the top-rated best value wine. Yet it is only $15. Other villages to seek out include Vinsobres, Rasteau, Chusclan, and Laudun.

Spellman thinks Cairanne will get its own appellation one day, as Gigondas did in 1971. After Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Gigondas, which may contain up to 85 percent Grenache, offers the best red wines for aging. Vacqueyras is another former Côtes du Rhône-Villages wine that received its own appellation. It is less well-known and thus often represents a good value.

Lirac and Tavel are best known for rosé wines, though Lirac makes a good deal of full-bodied red wine. Two dessert wines of note are Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise, made with the Muscat grape, and the less common Rasteau, made from Grenache.

Four new appellations to look out for are Coteaux du Tricastin, Costiere de Nimes, Côtes du Ventoux, and Côtes du Luberon. These newcomers represent a whopping 22 percent of the area’s total production and thus the potential for some good values.

According to Wine Spectator, nine of the past 15 southern Rhône vintages were either rated very good (1994, 1995, 1999, 2001), outstanding (1988, 2000) or classic (1989, 1990, 1998).

And while many European wine regions unaccustomed to heat waves did not know how to handle the blistering summer of 2003, it was business as usual for the southern Rhône. Says Francois Dauvergne, CEO of Louis Bernard, “The 2003 vintage is tremendous, very ripe and dense.

Sam Gugino is Taste columnist for Wine Spectator and author of Low-Fat Cooking to Beat the Clock.