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Zinfandel: A Wine Without Pretense

Boutique Cabernet Sauvignons may command stratospheric prices but they can be more coveted than enjoyed. Chardonnay or Merlot are popular by default, not by desire. Zinfandel, however, is embraced with the kind of enthusiasm afforded no other varietal.

One reason is that Zinfandel is almost exclusively an American wine, as opposed to Cabernets or Pinot Noirs, which are made the world over. Another is that, unlike some red wines, Zinfandel is without pretense. There is no learning curve and no need to lay it down for years before it becomes drinkable. It is immediately likeable for its juicy berry fruit and friendly tannins. “Zinfandel is the anti-Cabernet wine, says Eric Cinnamon, winemaker at Rancho Zabaco Winery in Healdsburg, Calif. “It’s generous and rich and goes great with food. That’s why it’s fun to make. Who wants to make a trophy wine?

Grown-Up Jug Wine
Planted mostly by Italian immigrants beginning in the mid-19th century, California Zinfandel was primarily an everyday drinking wine, often as part of jug wine blends. In the 1970s, stand-alone Zinfandels were “totally cult, according to Jeff McBride, winemaker for Dry Creek Vineyard. “Back then you had high-alcohol Zins, port-like Zins, claret-style Zins, rosé style Zins. It was too complicated, McBride says.

Ironically, one thing that saved Zinfandel from itself was white Zinfandel, the hugely popular blush wine made from the red Zinfandel grape. Though serious Zinfandel drinkers scoff at this pedestrian quaff, it helped to get rid of a lot of potentially mediocre red Zinfandel. And it also preserved many old and prized Zinfandel vines, which would have been ripped out to plant other grapes. That’s why McBride has “toasted the Zin gods with a glass of white Zinfandel during each of the past 25 harvests.

The quality of today’s Zinfandel is higher than ever, thanks to better site and clonal selections, better vineyard management, and improved winemaking techniques. Different styles of Zinfandel are still made, but they are more controlled. And they are more appreciated by a knowledgeable wine-drinking public.

America’s Heritage Wine
Although devotees consider Zinfandel “America’s heritage wine, it is not native to this country. The Italian Primitivo grape was thought to be Zinfandel’s ancestor, but we now know it is Croatia’s Crljenak Kastelanski. That hasn’t stopped the Italians from taking advantage of Zinfandel’s popularity by increasing exports of Primitivo wine (mostly from Puglia) to the U.S. and calling some of it Zinfandel.

None of the Primitivo I’ve ever tasted was like California Zinfandel. Nor was the New Mexico Zinfandel I tried from Jory Winery. (Zinfandel is also made, albeit in limited quantities, in Arizona, Texas, Oregon, Washington, South Africa, and Australia.) The New Mexico Zin was more like Pinot Noir than Zinfandel, lacking that lush, jammy fruit one expects. Zinfandel does have one thing in common with Pinot Noir, says Ed Sbragia, winemaster at Beringer Vineyards. “It can be as finicky to grow. It’s very site specific, he says.

Sonoma County is the Mecca for California Zinfandel. Dry Creek Valley produces ripe, lush wines with soft tannins, a core of black cherry fruit and peppery notes. The Russian River Valley is cooler, which allows for long hang time for grapes, creating bright fruit flavors leaning toward plums and boysenberries. Sonoma Valley produces rich and spicy but well-structured wines.

Mendocino and Lake Counties are cooler areas which produce richly colored wines with distinct raspberry-cherry flavors and surprising depth. Napa Valley Zins can be complex and ageworthy. Paso Robles or Central Coast Zinfandels offer styles from lush, ripe and soft to leaner, lighter claret-styled wines. High temperatures in the Sierra Foothills (Amador County) push the envelope of ripeness in grapes, creating high alcohol and often raisined or pruney flavors.

Single Vineyard Zinfandels
Several producers, such as Ravens-wood, Ridge, and Rosenblum, make up to a dozen single vineyard Zinfandels. Production may be only a few hundred cases, which adds to the cult cachet. Vineyards to look for include Dusi Ranch, DuPratt, Dickerson, Grandpere, Hendry Ranch, Monte Rosso, Old Hill Ranch, Pagani, and Samsel.

Many of these vineyards have vines that go back to the early 20th century and beyond. These “old vines are coveted for the intense flavors they provide. The vineyards often contain other varieties, particularly Petite Sirah, Alicante, and Carignan, which give Zinfandel elements it lacks, such as color. So-called “field blends are common with Zinfandel.

There are so many good producers, any list is bound to leave a few out. But here are more: Beaulieu, Robert Biale, Chateau Potelle, Cline, DeLoach, Elyse, Gary Farrell, Geyser Peak, Kenwood, Louis Martini, Nalle, Peachy Canyon, A. Rafanelli, Renwood, Rodney Strong, Sausal, Seghesio, Steele, Turley, and Zoom.

While the 2000 vintage was considered uneven—and rated 84 or “good by Wine Spectator—several winemakers liked it better than the higher-rated 1999 vintage. All agree that the 2001 vintage was stellar.

When it comes to matching with food, Zinfandel is versatile, but much depends on the style. Jeff McBride suggests that lighter Zins, below 14% alcohol, would be best for things like roast turkey and tomato-based sauces. Bigger Zins are more appropriate for heavier dishes like osso buco, roast lamb or beef and game. I’ve even had coq au vin, made with Zinfandel—at a French restaurant, no less. Take that, Pinot Noir.